Tortilla de papas is the picnic dish, the leftover dish, the any-time-of-day dish. Potatoes, onions, eggs. That is it. But cooked slowly and flipped once, it becomes the Argentinian answer to comfort food.
The Argentinian tortilla de papas is close cousin to the Spanish tortilla española, but with a few distinct differences: it is usually thicker, includes more onion, and is almost always served warm or at room temperature rather than hot. It works as a side for an asado, as a main with a salad, as a filling for a sandwich the next day.
The technique is simple but demands patience. Slow-cooking the potatoes in olive oil until tender but not browned is what gives the tortilla its silky texture. Rushing this step (by boiling or frying hot) results in a coarser, more omelette-like dish.
This serves 4 as a main with salad, or 6 as a side. Leftovers keep for 3 days and make excellent sandwiches.
Cold tortilla de papas plus Argentum empanadas plus a bottle of Malbec is the perfect Argentinian picnic. Both travel well, both taste good at room temperature, both please the crowd.
Ingredients
For the tortilla
- 6 medium potatoes (800 g), peeled
- 2 large onions, thinly sliced
- 6 large eggs
- 180 ml good-quality olive oil
- 1 tsp salt
- Black pepper
Method
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Prep the vegetables.
Peel and slice the potatoes into 3 mm slices. Pat dry with a tea towel. Thinly slice the onions.
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Confit the potatoes.
Heat the olive oil in a wide non-stick pan over medium-low heat. Add the potato slices and onion. The oil should mostly cover them. Cook slowly for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring gently every few minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender when pierced. They should not brown.
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Drain the oil.
Drain the potatoes and onions in a colander, reserving the oil. Let them cool for 5 minutes.
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Mix with eggs.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with salt and pepper. Add the drained potatoes and onions. Mix gently to combine, breaking up some of the potato slightly but not mashing.
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First side.
Heat 2 tbsp of the reserved oil in the same non-stick pan over medium heat. Pour in the egg mixture, shaking the pan to even it out. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the edges are set and the bottom is golden.
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Flip it.
Place a flat plate (larger than the pan) upside down over the pan. Holding pan and plate together with tea towels, invert in one quick motion. Slide the tortilla back into the pan, raw side down.
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Second side.
Cook for another 3 to 4 minutes. The centre should still be slightly soft. Do not overcook. Dry tortilla is a crime against the dish.
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Rest and serve.
Slide onto a plate. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges.
Chef's notes.
Slow cook the potatoes. The oil-poach (confit) step is what makes this dish. Frying hot browns them but leaves them firm inside. Slow cook gives silky.
Non-stick pan essential. The flip is the only scary part. A good non-stick pan makes it foolproof. Cast iron works too but requires well-seasoned surface.
Slightly underdone centre. The Spanish call this "jugosa" (juicy). Argentinian versions follow the same principle. You want some moisture in the middle, not dry and crumbly.
Save the oil. The olive oil left over from cooking the potatoes is flavoured gold. Use it in salad dressings, for frying eggs, or for roasting vegetables.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between Argentinian and Spanish tortilla?
Very similar, but Argentinian tortilla is usually thicker (more potato and onion per egg), cooked slightly longer, and served more often at room temperature. Spanish tortilla is traditionally served warm, slightly runny in the centre.
Can I add other ingredients?
Yes. Chopped chorizo, grated cheese, spinach, ham, and capsicum are all common variations. Add them to the pan with the potatoes. Do not add too many. The dish works best when kept simple.
Can I make it without flipping?
Yes. Start on the stove for 4 minutes, then finish under a grill (broiler) for 2 to 3 minutes until the top is set and lightly golden. This is called "tortilla al horno."
Can I make it the day before?
Yes. Tortilla actually tastes better after resting a few hours or overnight. Keep covered at room temperature for up to 4 hours or refrigerate and bring back to room temperature before serving.
Empanadas, the picnic partner.
Baked empanadas hold well at room temperature for an hour. Perfect alongside tortilla de papas for any outdoor gathering.