There is dulce de leche from the jar, and there is dulce de leche you make yourself. They are not the same thing. The homemade version is deeper, more caramelised, and tastes less sweet despite having the same sugar content. The difference is three hours of slow stirring.
Dulce de leche is the sweet heart of Argentinian desserts. It fills alfajores, crowns flan, fills churros, is spread on toast, and is eaten by the spoonful straight from the jar. Every household has a preferred brand. La Serenísima, Ilolay, Chimbote. Every grandmother also has a homemade recipe.
The traditional method uses whole milk and sugar, cooked slowly for hours until the sugars caramelise and the liquid reduces to a thick, amber-coloured paste. The technique is Latin American, and versions exist in every country (Chilean manjar, Mexican cajeta, Brazilian doce de leite), but Argentina is widely considered the birthplace of the modern dulce de leche tradition.
This recipe makes about 400 g. It takes 3 hours of mostly-passive cooking with occasional stirring. There is also a shortcut version using condensed milk, which is described in the chef's notes. The traditional recipe produces a better result.
For a faster alternative: place an unopened can of sweetened condensed milk in a large pot, cover with water (ensure the can stays fully submerged throughout), and boil for 2 to 3 hours. Let cool completely before opening. The result is quite thick and sweet, closer to industrial dulce de leche.
The traditional recipe below produces a deeper, more nuanced dulce de leche. Worth the extra time.
Ingredients
For the dulce de leche
- 2 L whole milk (full fat, not skim)
- 500 g caster sugar
- 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped (or 1 tbsp vanilla essence)
- 1/4 tsp baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
Method
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Combine the ingredients.
In a large heavy-based saucepan (the milk will foam and expand during cooking, so use a pot at least 3x the initial volume), combine the milk, sugar, split vanilla pod and seeds, and baking soda.
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Heat gently.
Place over medium-low heat. Stir gently with a wooden spoon until the sugar dissolves completely, about 5 minutes. Do not boil rapidly.
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First hour.
Keep at a gentle simmer (small bubbles around the edges, not a rolling boil). Stir every 10 minutes. The mixture will gradually darken from cream to pale gold.
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Second hour.
Continue simmering. The mixture will start to thicken noticeably. Stir every 5 minutes now, scraping the bottom to prevent scorching. Colour deepens to pale caramel.
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Final hour.
Watch carefully now. Stir constantly for the last 20 to 30 minutes. The dulce de leche should be rich amber-brown and coating the back of the spoon thickly. When a drop on a cold plate holds its shape, it is done.
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Strain and jar.
Remove the vanilla pod. Strain the dulce de leche through a fine sieve into a clean glass jar (this removes any scorched milk solids). Cool completely before sealing and refrigerating.
Chef's notes.
Use whole milk only. Skim milk does not produce the right texture. The fat content is what gives dulce de leche its velvety body.
Baking soda is the secret. It raises the pH slightly, which accelerates the Maillard browning reaction and gives the dulce de leche its distinctive dark colour and deep flavour. Do not skip it.
Low and slow only. High heat scorches the milk and produces bitter flavours. Patience is non-negotiable.
Final consistency. It should be thick enough to pipe but soft enough to spread. Too thick: add a splash of hot milk and stir. Too thin: cook 15 minutes longer.
Storage. Keeps in a sealed jar in the fridge for 3 weeks. Or freeze in portions for up to 3 months.
Frequently asked questions
Is homemade dulce de leche really better than store-bought?
Yes. Homemade has a cleaner, more caramelised flavour and silkier texture. Supermarket versions are often overly sweet and one-dimensional. That said, store-bought works fine for baking applications where the dulce de leche is one element among many.
Can I stop and restart the cooking?
Not really. Dulce de leche should be cooked in one continuous session. Stopping allows a skin to form and can cause the mixture to scorch when resumed.
How do I use dulce de leche?
On toast, in alfajores, in flan, as a filling for crepes, swirled through ice cream, or eaten by the spoonful. It is also used commercially in pastries, cakes, and chocolates.
Is dulce de leche the same as caramel?
Similar but different. Caramel is made by browning sugar first, then adding cream/butter. Dulce de leche is made by slowly reducing milk with sugar, caramelising both together. The result is thicker, more milky, and less intensely sweet than caramel.
What brand of dulce de leche should I buy in Sydney?
La Serenísima (Argentinian brand) and Havanna (also Argentinian) are available at The Argentinian Market online. Latin American grocers stock other imports. Coles and Woolworths carry basic versions.
Empanadas, the balance.
After all this sweetness, savoury empanadas finish the Argentinian spread. Five flavours handmade in Bondi Beach, delivered across Sydney.