Every 29th of the month, Argentinian families eat ñoquis. The tradition is to place money under the plate before eating, so the coming month brings prosperity. It is half superstition, half excuse for a specific Sunday lunch.
Ñoquis del 29 is one of Argentina's most beloved Italian-Argentinian traditions. The practice dates to the late 1800s, when immigrant families stretched their budgets at the end of the month with a cheap-but-filling potato pasta. The money-under-the-plate superstition comes from the belief that the last meal before payday deserves a small offering for prosperity.
Argentinian ñoquis are softer and more delicate than Italian gnocchi. The ratio is different (more potato, less flour), and the cooking time is shorter. They are almost always served with a red sauce (salsa de tomate) or bolognese, never with pesto or cream-heavy sauces.
This recipe serves 4 to 6 and takes about an hour. Make the gnocchi while the sauce simmers for peak efficiency.
The tradition dates to working-class Italian-Argentinian families in the early 1900s. By the 29th of the month wages had run out, and cheap ingredients like potato and flour became dinner. Placing money (initially just a bill tucked under the plate) symbolised a prayer for the coming paycheck.
Today it is mostly ritual and family tradition, but many Argentinians still put a folded note or coin under their plate on the 29th.
Ingredients
For the gnocchi
- 1 kg floury potatoes (Desiree or Sebago)
- 300 g plain flour, plus more for dusting
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- 50 g grated parmesan
- 1 tsp salt
- Pinch of nutmeg
For the tomato sauce
- 500 ml good-quality tomato passata
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 onion, finely diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 tsp dried basil
- Salt and pepper
- Fresh basil leaves, to finish
- Extra parmesan, to serve
Method
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Boil the potatoes whole.
Wash the potatoes but do not peel. Place in a large pot of cold salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 to 40 minutes until tender when pierced with a knife. Cooking them whole keeps them drier.
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Start the sauce.
While the potatoes cook, heat the olive oil in a pan. Sweat the onion and garlic for 8 to 10 minutes until soft. Add the passata, sugar, oregano, basil, salt, and pepper. Simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes until reduced slightly.
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Peel and rice the potatoes.
Once cooked, drain and peel the potatoes while still hot (use a tea towel to hold them). Pass through a potato ricer or mash until completely smooth. Spread on a tray to release steam and cool for 10 minutes.
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Mix the dough.
Transfer cooled riced potato to a floured surface. Make a well in the centre. Add the flour, beaten egg, parmesan, salt, and nutmeg. Using your hands, gently bring the dough together. Knead briefly, just until it comes together. Do not over-knead. Tough gnocchi is the result of too much kneading.
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Shape the gnocchi.
Cut the dough into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope about 2 cm thick. Cut the rope into 2 cm pillows. For traditional grooves, roll each piece down the tines of a fork or a gnocchi board. The grooves help the sauce cling.
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Cook the gnocchi.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook the gnocchi in batches, dropping them in gently. They are done when they float to the surface, usually 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon.
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Dress and serve.
Transfer the cooked gnocchi directly to the pan of warm sauce. Gently toss to coat. Divide into bowls, top with fresh basil and extra parmesan. Serve immediately.
Chef's notes.
Do not over-knead. The more you work the dough, the more gluten develops, the chewier the gnocchi becomes. Mix just until it comes together.
Potatoes whole, not cubed. Boiling potatoes whole keeps them drier. Cubed potatoes absorb water and require more flour, which toughens the gnocchi.
Test one first. Before shaping all the gnocchi, boil one to test. If it falls apart, add more flour. If it is tough, you kneaded too much.
Serve immediately. Gnocchi waits for no one. They firm up within minutes of leaving the water. Have sauce hot and plates ready.
Frequently asked questions
Why are Argentinian ñoquis different from Italian gnocchi?
Argentinian ñoquis have a higher potato-to-flour ratio (3:1 vs Italian 2:1) and often include parmesan and egg. They are softer, more pillowy, and served with simpler sauces (usually tomato or bolognese, never cream-based).
Can I make gnocchi in advance?
Yes. Shape the gnocchi, dust with flour, and freeze on a baking-paper-lined tray until solid (about 2 hours). Transfer to a sealed bag and freeze for up to 3 months. Cook directly from frozen. They take 1 minute longer than fresh.
What sauce is traditional with ñoquis?
Simple tomato sauce (salsa de tomate) is the most traditional. Bolognese is common. Pesto is seen but less traditional. Cream-based sauces (like gorgonzola) are Italian-Argentinian modern adaptations.
Do I need a potato ricer?
Highly recommended. A ricer gives the smoothest, lightest gnocchi. A masher is acceptable but produces denser dough. A food processor will ruin the texture, never use one.
Can I make ñoquis gluten-free?
Yes, with a 1:1 gluten-free flour blend. The texture will be slightly more fragile. Reduce kneading even further and work gently.
Empanadas, hand-folded like ñoquis.
Our Classic empanada (provolone, parmesan, mozzarella, caramelised onion) channels the same Italian-Argentinian cheese tradition. Bake from frozen in 18 minutes.